MILA

Features · Cultural Fashion

Fashion does not have one centre.

A stylist who only knows one tradition is not a stylist, just a narrow one. Mila carries the vocabulary of how people actually dress — the garments, the cloth, the craft — so you can ask for a look in the register you want it, whether that is traditional, contemporary, or the two together.

Indian

Saree drapes and their regional differences, lehenga and sherwani, the kurta as everyday or formal. Handloom silk, block print and zari work.

    Chinese

    The qipao line, hanfu layering and the tangzhuang jacket, with silk, brocade and knotted closures — alongside the spare modern tailoring of Shanghai and Hong Kong.

      Nigerian

      The agbada and its sweep, iro and buba, and the gele as the piece that finishes a look. Aso-oke weaving, adire resist-dye and bold wax print.

        Ghanaian

        Kente strip-weaving and what its patterns are for, the batakari smock, and kaba and slit tailoring — worn ceremonially and cut for every day.

          Ethiopian

          The habesha kemis in hand-spun cotton, the netela worn over it, and tibeb borders whose woven patterns carry the detail of the garment.

            Zambian

            Chitenge cloth wrapped, and chitenge tailored — into shift dresses, structured jackets and separates by designers working in Lusaka now.

              South African

              Isishweshwe printed cotton, Xhosa and Ndebele beadwork as finishing, and the Madiba shirt — with the tailoring coming out of Johannesburg and Cape Town.

                European

                Italian and British tailoring and how differently they cut a shoulder, Scandinavian restraint, and French day dressing built on few pieces.

                  Middle Eastern

                  The abaya and the thobe, the kaftan across the Levant, and tatreez embroidery — plus the layering that modest dressing is built on, which is a discipline of proportion.

                    Emirati & Gulf

                    The kandura and the abaya worn with a sheila, and the Gulf eveningwear built around them. Part of the wider Middle Eastern tradition above, with its own cut and occasion dress.

                      Western

                      American denim and workwear, the suit as it was reworked in the twentieth century, and the streetwear vocabulary that now sits beside both.

                        Across Asia

                        Japanese kimono and haori layering, the hanbok line, the áo dài, Indonesian and Malaysian batik and baju kurung, and the barong tagalog in piña and jusi.

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                            Style Across Cultures

                            Fashion does not have one centre. The same confidence in Paris, in London, in Johannesburg.

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